Your first impressions of Malaysia's hi-tech, fast-growing west-coast capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), are likely to be of a vibrant and colorful, if crowded, place. Traditionally, people have stayed just long enough to think about their next destination, but there are good reasons to stay a little longer: accommodation is plentiful and cheap, the food is excellent and its streets safe and friendly.

Less than three hours' journey south lies the birthplace of Malay civilization, Melaka, a must on anybody's itinerary, while north up the coast is the first British settlement, the island of Penang, and its very appealing capital, Georgetown. For a taste of Old England and lots of walks, head for the hill station of the Cameron Highlands.

North of Penang, the premier tourist destination is Pulau Langkawi , a popular duty-free island. Routes down the Peninsula's east coast are more relaxing, with stops at the sleepy mainland kampung like Cherating and the stunning islands of Pulau Perhentian and Pulau Tioman. The state capitals of Kota Bharu, near the northeastern Thai border, and Kuala Terengganu, further south, are showcases for the best of Malay crafts and performing arts, while the unsullied tropical rainforests of Taman Negara National Park offer trails, animal hides, a high canopy walkway and waterfalls.